After not being completely taken by the show, naturally, I had to have a quick word with the design duo to find out about the migration from their known overall aesthetic:
"This collection was very different from what we do. We went with more structure, more exclusivity, contrasting fabrics, sex, more passion and erotic," the duo had to say.The collection followed a dark era in Spain history centred around liberty lead by Goya. An era where death, during and post-Napoleonic War, was very prevalent. In short, the setting was in the era of Spanish Romanticism.
The collection moved from Metadors (red), widows (black) and Ghosts (white) - all representing the strange era.
One garment from the collection, as would be the case when someone purchases an item, will fail to narrate the full story of the inspiration and all that will be left will be a single garment telling its own story. Unfortunately, the stand-alone looks lacked something I cannot quite pin-point... let's call it je ne sais quoi for lack of a better description.
The fabrication (with lace peering from dress hems for the kick of sex, chiffon, velvet seen in capes and bows and silk with digi-prints) was excellent; elegant and obviously expensive, the detailing unquestionable but the overall execution left me a little panting for a throw-back of the Kluk CGdT I know and love. Perhaps I'm a little change-o-phobic?
Worth noting, nonetheless, are the gorgeous capes and darting and cut on the jackets which obviously give the jacket structure but also a strange but appealing shape
Not scared to be completely and utterly different, Heni presented a collection riddled by pretty shirt dresses with exaggerated detailing such as Ruff-esque collars and Elizabethan arms. Easy to style, gorgeous, simple but delightful. As a fan of kaftans and shirt dresses, it really is no surprise that I appreciated elements of this collection: paired with jeans for a day office look, worn as is for a day at, say, Neighbourhood market/Arts on Main or leggings/stockings for an evening look - the pieces are quite versatile, including the showstopper.
The show in it's entirety was a collection of super-wearable clothing made exciting by the strangeness of Heni's (rather) dark take on his collections - the themes tend to flirt with ideas of pain, break ups and general sadness -fortunately that does not translate into the clothes.
Colour Palette: Black, white and off-whites
Did I mention he's gone Galliano in his personal look? The hair, bandana and hat combo? Well, that's how he was spotted on the ramp. Another strange one, especially because no brand wants the Galliano-association (sadly, the world should forgive for Dior sake) post his hiccup last year in Paris.
Abigail BetzCollars in different shapes and sizes (from demure Peter Pan collars to Eduardian collars), strong 60s aesthetic of coat dresses and the 60s silhouette (slightly puffed out at the hips - which flatters most shapes) define Abigail's collection. The collection is bang-on predicted trends for Autumn/winter 2012 and is easy on the eye... fuss-free and ready for the retail.
Colour Palette: white, greys, nudes
Ps. Click on the image to enlarge it
Images by Simon Deiner of SDRphoto