Tuesday, April 10, 2012

Bring on the Masters - SA Fashion Week

Suzaan Heyns

As you know, I received feeds from all sorts of sources regarding Suzaan's collection and collaboration with PPC cement (see previous write-up here) in the build up to her collection titled: "Reimagine cement"- but none of it really prepared me for this (ps. play the game I did during the collection, "spot the cement"):

The entrance to the hall featured cemented faced gentlemen

Featuring men in skirts (and I urge you to read this article), soft and fluid textures made hard and structured (courtesy of PPC), soft leather dipped cement and shaped... in short, it was a brilliant display of contrasting (manipulated) textures and materials; from leather to chiffon and cotton.

The collection featured several simple separates, beautiful classic cuts (with a few dazzles of gender-bending and unexpected detailing), simple and everyday-wearable - a first for a Suzaan Heyns runway collection, but certainly not without any joy.

The colour palette ranged from nudes, beige, off-whites to greys and blues - an interesting combination for spring/summer given how colour-bursts are the more popular choice for this season - then again there'd be nothing unique about the brand if it subscribed to pop-demands.

Go for:
Layered men's pants
A cement cape or scarf (wonder if those are for sale)
Leather waistcoats

Clive Rundle

As I cannot really capture the collection in sentences, it's best I list the interest, pile on images and let you mellow and allow yourself to bask in the masters work (heck, I shot up to add to the standing ovation squad with the final walk-through, grinning like an idiot for the delight i experienced)...Before I head into the ten-point list, I must note that the past few odd years saw Clive sending out self-made fabric which, on its own, is commendable but lacked the next step which was what was witnessed in his ss2012 collection. I was awed!
The collection's touch points:
1. Nothing in the collection was symmetrical, intentionally so - love!
2. Deconstruction done to perfection - Love't!
3. Asian touches with African finishes - Love't!
4. Bold, cheerful colour usage - always a delight to see for a spring/summer collection
5. Sheer material and chiffon with intricate detailing - including hole burns in chiffon (as Dion Chang, of FluxTrends, said when we caught up later: Who does that?) - Love't!
6. Voluminous, layering and light at the same time - a clear understanding of fabrication which is always a delight - Love't!
7. Styling perfection. I spoke to a few fashion editors after the show to ask how they would interpret and restyle the collection for their own editorials and the consensus was: If you play around with anything in the collection, you run the risk of ruining what is already perfect or as one ed. said (and my personal funny moment): reinterpreting for my fashion pages will be the difference between being employed and unemployed. - Love't!
8. Gorgeous separates: Obi belts and deconstructed bolero-esque coats.
9. The collection followed no trend: it was a raw interpretation of the ideal world in which the designer sees spring-summer, the difference between an artist and a designer in my view.
10. It's Clive at his best!

Go For:
The aforementioned "gorgeous separates"
Sheer and chiffon dresses

Images by Simon Deiner of SDR and Ivan Naude

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