Showing posts with label Joburg Fashion Week. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Joburg Fashion Week. Show all posts

Saturday, February 26, 2011

David Tlale Fall 2011

sub-heading: To whom much is given, much is expected.

After a flood of earned and self-generated media campaign of David showing his fall collection at the bridge, I got nervous - but he's David, he always delivers...

When I arrived at the pre-drinks session to be met by half of Johannesburg outside David's studio, I got nervous - but he's David, he always delivers...

When hordes of people were turned away from entering from the closest entrance to David's Studio, where the pre-social happened, twitter started firing up with annoyance, I got nervous - but he's David, he always delivers...

When I found myself on the bridge frantically looking for a seat - and being told that the demarcated media area was in shambles (due to unforeseen circumstances), but the ever-willing publicists found me a perfect spot - but when I saw the multitudes where still shuffling around to find even a curb to sit their behinds down, 5 minutes prior to the scheduled late show, I got nervous - but he's David, he always delivered...

2 hours post the scheduled time, I switched to twitter to find thee most accomplished of people in the fashion circles annoyed, I got nervous - but he's David, he always delivers.

Did he deliver?




The sombre music opened the floor while ramps marched down the ramp in dark floor-length capes and headed to the middle of the Bridge to a raised platform which played backstage for the duration of the show - clever trick there.

The colour palette David had for his fall collection is typical of winter: blacks, greys and whites while the solid, deep red splashed across all the garments gave the fall collection a femme fatale, luxurious finish which was an incredible thread throughout the collection.

Other than volume in uninspiring locations (cuff, upper arm and hips), the basic silhouette was reminiscent of all David's shows (including his NYFW 2009 ollection) in the past - a trait they also adopted in their Africa Fashion Week's "Butterfly collection" - which left the choice in fabric and intricate detailing to deliver fresh ideas to tried-and-tested fantastic templates.

The cottons, silks and satin (with retro-inspired) patterns DID DELIVER. His referencing of his old collection and retro-inspired prints merged together to capture the old-world, new-charm aesthetic which is where South African street-style sits at the moment.

It was one of the few shows which David did not overstyle which simplifies it for the consumer. It was less intimidating which then found more people relating to some of the pieces in the collection (which could translate to breaking the ice between potential-consumers and the brand)

An overall good collection, bar by the many fillers which, in my opinion, are fantastic collection spin-offs but should not have been in the collection itself but with an ambitious 92-piece collection to pull-off, thoughts of this were not entertained, which is a real pity. eg, though all very different, the 10-odd wet-look voluminous dresses and white shirts (each with it's own uniqueness in terms of design) seeing all 10 (though, again in my opinion) were not the core collection.

With all this said, I just really need to ask (and I am guilty of blushing and gushing in excitement when the presentation of the collection requires "out of the box"-thinking): was the SHOW bigger than the COLLECTION? or the perfect marriage? I would really like to see a more subdued show and more drama in the collection...

TO answer: David delivered, but forgot to edit, he misaligned his collection with the drama that his media-mentions generated but the collection was thorough, complete, beautiful and solid - which, when all is said and done, is what its all about, THE CLOTHES!

Pics by Simon Deiner

Thursday, February 24, 2011

Heni




The entire collection was made up of 4 basic colours: Red, gray, Black and white - who can say no to that for winter... the 2 (or rather 4) are synonymous!

The tale told by the collection was about the agony of growing up, the transition from girl to woman and the bondage that that stage of life can have on any woman. With that said, the collection could've turned very "matrony" but instead turned into a sexy, strong collection.

I did find some of the fittings awkward (looked like the slits were about to split) due to the tailoring - whether by design or execution, it was a a bit strange... I thought i might even see someone's "good china crockery" on the catwalk. Other than questionable tailoring, the collection could appeal to aby age group as it had elements which showed pure maturity (and very boardroom-ready) while some lace-finished garments had a grunge feel which could easily appeal to a dark-humoured 16 year old. BUT all very feminine - yes it was quite a spectacle to move from one look to the other which reiterated the narration.

But the colour palette was strong, the red tape was used effectively (something I might even consider doing myself) and the clothes were nicely snug (the return of the body con?) and flattered the body.

Loved the sheer material and the pussybow-fastened Capes. Loved the padding on some dresses as it gave a fuller figured female silhouette and that too showed hints of the winter 50s trend! Loved the overall styling including the strange, bloodthirsty-person-looking make-up.

The tomboyish appeal also tapped into my love of androgyny which I revel in upon seeing it.

PS ain that David in the black hosiery? yes, the make-up artist?

Pics by Simon Deiner

Tart






While playing with the idea of contrasting women behaviour - hard and soft -, Cari (the Tart designer) nailed one piece I would've loved to see more of: the DeGorge leather collars.

These collars offer wardrobe versaility, shifting a basic tank from gym-look to urban chic, which is an excellent look at the need for designer's vision to be easily incorporated into the consumer's lifestyle.

I loved that the collar could also be accessorized to give it longevity (as one look can get a little tired) while maintaining a good chic, street cred.

Congratulations on your 10 years! An awesome achievement and I loved the groupie prints...

The collection, overall, was flooded with standard staples but the collar was a winner for me!


Pics by Simon Deiner

Abigail Keats





Wearable, functional, beautiful, lady-like, staples - that's all you need to know.

But please, I insist, have a look at the skinny extra-long belt... noticed the coil? Detail!
Now practice, I am (can't seem to crack it but i will persevere)

Pics by Simon Deiner

Monday, February 21, 2011

Stiaan Louw





I would wear EVERY-single piece that was on display - as it is, or Maque-styled. This collection, described by some as a very Romantic African Story with very strong Nomadic references, was conceptually strong and brilliantly executed.

Stiaan has really mastered the art of layering the most intricate, clashing materials (hard and soft, delicate and robust) to give life to clothes that are, in general, a very gray-area for a western-influenced man.

I also loved the odd pants: harems in hard material, Jodphur-effects on some of the pants, the delicate materials used in the kaftans and the waterfall-feature in the oversized cardigans
(which, in the above pictures - pic 2 at the top - , is thrown over the shoulder to give a scarf effect) - a trend which picked up with female collections a few years ago, but the masculine touch on it gives it a testosterone drive - and you know anything androgynous speaks Maquenese!

I loved it!! tres DeGorge.

Images by Simon Deiner

Bongiwe Walaza





One could argue that this collection had more Edwardian references - there was too much attention given to the collar - than Victorian - which is more about covering it ALL up -, but either way - her inspiration of the Victorian era with a Xhosa narrative was well received by the crowd, including the First Lady of South Africa, one of them, who was comfortably seated in the front row (whom I saw smiling)...

The piping on the edges of the voluminous gowns told her Xhosa roots, while the silhouette told a dramatic tale of the European Old World. Her use of Seshweshwe was very clever too: the overpowering silhouettes required a hard and distinctly African material to show the contrast in her designs and that's exactly how most of her clothes were executed - definitely well thought-through!

I see a lot of Bongiwe Walaza-clothed African weddings, or perhaps parties hosted by the State? Yes, it's beautiful enough to be edgy for the youngins and lovable by the parents.

Pics by Simon Deiner

Avant





If you love TopShop in London, this collection will speak your language, fluently!!

Inspired by London street style, these ready to wear art pieces are completely DeGorge. I love the multiple zip coats and the cross-pendants! They all had a sombre, dark and mystical feel but with a fierce energy about them (did someone say Eclipse Movies?)... I was completely sold on this collection.

The styling of the collection also worked soo well too.

Another appealing factor was the tasteful use of tasseling, in clever nooks on the garments, to give movement to the outfits - a very sexy element to the grunge.

The tailoring and finishes were impeccable and I, not joking here, am eyeing a number to free my partner when wardrobe fails zip detail jacket.

The sheer material skirts with patch detailing to cover the ladybits was also a lovely sight - I just hope they have a shirt version because I am not holding back, watch this space!

On the otherside of my excitement was that this collection is very reminiscent of Suzaan Heyns' collection for Audi Joburg Fashion week 2010 collection, no? okay... the streets of London it is.


Images by Simon Deiner

Karabo Finger





She nailed the Parisian details, the "backward" scarf, the sleek and elegant pussybows, the masculine touches for an androgynous take - but still so feminine.

As far as concept goes, there was much creativity displayed. But I like the idea of making separates, each with a good finish, which translates to the pieces in the collection fitting well in any girls wardrobe.

I was more fond of styling more than anything - my senses were not awoken, unfortuantely, by the garments - but a very good pret-a-porter collection for all corporate girls


images by Simon Deiner

Sunday, February 20, 2011

Abigail Betz





Known for her Bridal wear, I was happy to see a drastic change in Abigail Betz's collection, for starters, it included the colour black and greys which I am lead to believe she has never used before.

Her 1950s-inspired collection is elegant and very high-tea-in-the-garden with a few lady friends (
you absolutely have to read that in your poshest English accent).

This change couldn't have have come at a better time... think about it - now that you've been married in an Abigail Betz, she now leads you into the new role of a leading lady in someone's life... a really sophisticated lady, for a gentleman... ahh! so glad to see the romantic in me still exists, lol

This collection, as the 1920s and 50s called for, is defined by voluminous dresses (and sleek shift dresses) but with a corporate feel which removes all images of just a high tea with lady friends and introduces a lifestyle of elegance...

The use of tulle in this collection was also very intelligently done - adding volume to the hips (which naturally makes the waist look smaller, there's your answer to trim down diets) and another trick I noted was also piling tulle in the front of the dress to highlight the beautifully constructed layered pleats in some of the dresses - this flattered most of the dresses and gave an overall amazing aesthetic.

Beautifully executed and as one of my interview subjects said, "it paid good homage to the era", but did nothing for those yearning for fresh concepts - read more on fashion week reviews on www.stylehousefiles.com
(short interviews).

I'm looking forward to more!

Pics by Simon Deiner

Lisp





Lisp, in short said: Let's never forget to party... club 54-style: Sex and rock 'n roll.

The target audience here is clearly the young folk... young folk with a punk-rock attitude but still seeking feminine touches. The contrast of the soft sheer, chiffon, "fluffy" material against the leather made quite an impact.

The clothes were sensual and seductive with a hard inner-being existing in them (depicted by the leather) - which again brings up the attitude that the clothes require - quite ballsy!

The finishes and fittings were a bit ill - but that added to the "don't give" attitude. Whether by mistake or by design, these questionable touches seemed to work.

I dwelled on the attitude aspect in this collection because there is clearly one way to wear a Lisp and that's with confidence laced with a party, uplifting mood.

In terms of designs, silhouettes and concept, this collection was not fresh - but all these elements were well put together to tell a story... a story of a good night out.

Pics by Simon Deiner

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Kluk CGdT





For me, there's only one word to describe this collection: shabby-chic!

With influences from Afghanistan, right through Morrocco and stretching to the East, Kluk CGdT's fall collection picked up some of the elements of the commoners in these countries' garbs and cleaned them up to make a richly coloured, multi-cultural representative collection of good taste.

With ample bows and waist-line cinching features, this collection is very feminine and BOLD at the same time. I loved the Asian-inspired gown and Asian wrap shirts. The Afghan prints on the plain material are DeGorge... love the SOS they give to the plain fabrics.

It, however lacked je ne sais quoi... there was something missing in the collection to have completed it, these elements were well covered:
The clothes had presence
Narrative
Were beautifully styled, finished and tailored
Material choice was great and so were the colour palettes
BUT there was something I felt was not there...

AND it is with that element that's missing (which I cannot identify) that I am left a bit baffled by this collection... don't get me wrong, the clothes are DeGorgeous.

Pics by Simon Deiner

Errol Arendz





It's safe to say, without a doubt, FUR is back!

Errol has always been known for tastefully made clothes which reflects his clientele who insist on quality, wear-ability, opulence, glamour and sophistication. I've always been under the impression that he has always moved with his clientele and has always remained current and relevant to them hence he never really conformed to trends - and I respected his business model for doing that.

2011 saw quite a drastic change. Errol kept his aesthetic but realigned his collection for a much younger crowd. This was evident in the length of some of the dresses and skirts. He kept some elements that would still appeal to his much older crowd... Overall, I just want to find out what his regulars think about this collection.

I personally did not recognize the Errol Arendz signature. I failed to see the "glamour and elegance" which I have always associated with his brand, I failed to see my imagined "Errol Arendz woman" in most of the garments from this collection...

Aesthetically speaking, the clothes are wearable, the pieces are, umm... lovely but where was Errol? I only picked up hints with the finishes and that was all I could see...

Without dwelling on the brand itself and looking at the garments individually, I actually saw what many women would see in this collection, a beautiful collection with ample pret-a-porter garments - but worry about Errol's premium prices for clothes that are just beautiful without an Errol signature (bar by some of the fur pieces).

Then again, this is only the first step in his rebranding (so it may appear)...


Pics by Simon Deiner

Tuesday, January 18, 2011

Launch of Joburg fashion Week

Joburg Fashion Week, as with any year kickstarted my calendar of events and it did not let down in any way!! Filled with Surprises, such as the new Managing Director of African Fashion International being Paul - a long-time associate of Patrice Motsepe (you'll find him at position 502 of Forbes richest people in the world, in case you do not know him) and Joburg Fashion Week moving away from the larney Sandton to Downtown Joburg... but you knew that from reading this blog, right?

Randlords, events-only Fabu-bubu club-cum-bar in Braamfontein, downtown Joburg, played host to the star-studded event and the view alone (coupled by a flowing bar, for those with blue tags, err, mine was blue BTW) set the mood for fashion week: exciting!

The guestlist was impressive with the uber-stylish fashion writer-cum-stylist-cum-lecturer Noni Gasa leading us into the programme which ended with a welcome speech from the ever poise, Dr Precious Motsepe.

In short, the event re-acquainted Joburg CBD to the doubtful and reiterated that the City is the new "it" venue.

Here are some of the fancy party-goers and fashionistas that graced the black-carpet:
Tatum Keshwar - I swear this girl walks on well camouflaged stilts - she is atleast two meters tall. She's wearing a David Tlale couture piece here.Suzaan Heyns - In an unmistakeable Suzaan Heyns outfit (yes, the leather finish was the give-away in this case)TwentyTwo Store owner, Vuyiswa - Miss Vie Arem to you - on the right with her lovely friend TTI nearly died!! TT wore these Finsk-esque booties at the event... I vont zem! They'd make such a pleasant objet d'art for my coffee table, no? okay, on my feet then. errr, TT, sweetie-huni-pie, we need to talk (I hope you're a size 8)Moira Flowerday (administration and sales Manager for Suzaan Heyns) strikes quite the pose here, lol - pictured with male-clothing designer, Stiaan Louw.Award-winning writer and new Elle girl and a fierce fashionista, Janine Jellers pictured here with On-Point PR owner, Vista KalipaMahlatse James the 3rd (read that slowly or you'll end up swearing! lol), in short, MJ3 - carrying an awesome vintage bag and leather tie (see what you can do with a skinny belt?)Make-up artists Lucoh Mhlongo and Vuyo Varoyi. One stroke of a brush by one of these boys and you are ready to hit any event - trust me, I've sat in their chairs before. Adorable (2010 New Talent Finalist) Kutloano Molokomme strikes a 2008-Vogue pose, minus the pout, he's such a character! He'll be showcasing at the Fast-track evening.