Indashio Inspires at New York Fashion Week: "I eat Glitter for Breakfast"

Allow me to introduce Indashio Inspires, for those who have never heard the name:

Bonang Matheba's Baby Star business partner, Koketso Chiepe, launched her label in South Africa last year at the Arise Africa Fashion week and again at Africa Fashion Week 2010 (read review here) - for each of these collections, she used the expertise of a New York A-list Stylist, self-taught and self-made Fashion Designer, Indashio Inspires. For the those who subscribe to DSTV ("cable"), you might also recognise him from the Vivica A Fox-hosted show on VH1, Glam God, where he won the title (or is that yet to play in South Africa?)

Well, Indashio showed again this year at New York Fashion Week and he sourced inspiration from Party Kids (think the the Party Monster era) where sequins, prints and psychedelic prints reigned supreme, but with a modern Gaga-inspired accents. The muse behind the collection was the nutty but awesome Amber Rose (Kanye West's ex) who also opened the show.

Amber Rose with Indashio Inspires (how ABBA are his boots?)




When I saw this collection, I thought: Bag of Skettles (which was, ironically, how Koketso described her 2010 Africa Fashion Week Collection).
It's certainly OTT and he did not spare one bit on colour - and I love the prints, they are so now! Keep in mind, this is his 2011 ss collection, so perhaps stocking up on the bursts of colours will see you through the 2010 and 2011 summer... don't you just love the convenience of forecasting based on New York Fashion Week?

Quick note for him:

Dear Indashio, sweety, huni-pie:

Where can we find your clothes?

Yours in all things DeGorgeous,
Maque

Here is the link for the full show - enjoy!

Lessons from Africa Fashion Week

The African, South African in particular, Fashion industry is in turmoil, yet again. Following Africa Fashion International’s blunder of fashion awards, bloggers and murmurs are questioning Africa Fashion International’s intention when it comes to Fashion.

I have just read a blog post by Miss Milisuthando Bongela, please read it (here), it’s a fantastic read – though laced with anger and total disregard for AFI in its entirety – and it awakens dormant issues regarding the fashion industry.

Before going on a rampage, I think it’s absolutely fair that I agree with her on the prematurely thought Fashion Awards: what is the selection criterion, for instance? For Grace Jones and Michael Jackson to be awarded “prestigious” awards as they did was absolutely nonsensical. Fashion Awards need to be carefully thought through!

South Africa, and the rest of Africa, needs a fashion council – and my sentiments on this are substantiated by Fern Mallis who was slightly perturbed by our lack of a National Fashion Council (read here)– during a fashion seminar hosted on Friday the 2^nd of July. Amongst other profiles that the National Fashion council will have will be to establish a working relationship with other African Fashion Council to keep abreast of cross-continent fashion-related issues. I will rest assured in future when, for instance, Black Coffee wins the Best Designer award because I would know that their work is known throughout the continent and it cannot be disputed by a Fashion critic and follower in, say, Tanzania.

A Fashion Council will also assist to plateau the AFI and Lucilla Booyzen (the biggest fashion week conveners in South Africa) issues, if media is anything to go by, who I believe compliment each others work. Lucilla Booyzen hosts a national fashion week (as with most African countries) which has found, praised and hosted some the country’s finest designers – Black Coffee, David Tlale, Clive Rundle to name a few – and her contribution to South Africa’s Fashion industry is undeniably tremendous! However, through her work for the national fashion industry, there has been a minimal effort to cross the border to expose our talent to the rest of the African continent and beyond. Enter AFI. AFI’s effort to open communication channels between South Africa and the rest of Africa has proven to be successful. In a matter of two years, Africa Fashion Week has become an international force that can no longer be ignored. Africa Fashion Week, through AFI, recognized a gap in the market and filled it successfully, elevating from where Lucilla seems to have left off which proves to be a complementary (silent) partnership. Furthermore, AFI has taken work by other Country-based fashion weeks and amalgamated it into one big fashion week which enjoys international media attention – which is a good start to entering the global market.

So is it fair to disregard AFI’s efforts citing reasons such as: it exploits African designers and offers nothing instead… well, let’s face it, that’s nonsense. The online boutique store that AFI will be launching will also see designers, whose clothes are not readily available, being made available to the national and international market – another direct example of how AFI is trying to rectify the lack of support and exposure African designers are getting.

Fine examples of the AFI’s Africa Fashion Week success stories are Thula Sindi and Heni who have both received local and global interests and they both generated income through the onsite boutique and will both be stocking for www.36boutiques.com (an online boutique). Thula Sindi also managed to secure 1 new Johannesburg based stockist while keeping his old stockists happy with his recent collection (and orders have been placed). Heni over and above securing local stockists has been invited to sell his collection at the London Trunk sale, which coincides with the London Fashion week, AND has been invited to design homeware items which will be sold by an online stockist. So to state that AFI pushes for La bon vie for the Motsepe’s and guests is absurd!

Lessons learnt: South Africa needs a Fashion Council. South Africa needs to stop hosting multiple fashion Weeks which are a waste of time and money! How about 2 national fashion weeks or trade and road shows under Lucilla Booyzen’s umbrella (to source fashion talent and to inform South African buyers and clients of what’s available to them) and One BIG Africa Fashion Week under AFI (which follows the continents fashion contribution) and then perhaps an awards ceremony that will be overseen by the continents Fashion Councils? A fantastic marriage of Lucilla and AFI’s skills, talents and international influence is what the Industry needs – not a ridge fuelled by media who obviously prefer one over the other.

Next time we hear of Bunmi Koko- who are being stocked by Harrods as of now, ahem…- winning designer of the year, heads should not turn to try to figure out who and why.

Africa Fashion Week day 4

Carducci man and Carducci Woman:

Summary: Corporate wear

Thread: this was a thought-thread: unimaginative nut solid pieces

Opinion: Given that I was not expecting an earth-shattering experience I looked for new and emerging trends for mass market and by far my favourite for men was the matching voluminous scarf and shirt matching combo on a well cut suit (although their suites were not exactly tailored to perfection). The women’s collection were tons of LBDs with leaf-like finishes (acting as frills and tassles) – that’s all!

Boudoir D’Huitres

Summary: Basic Basics with a slight Bang

Thread: Black and red

Opinion: I loved the fact that she had no bling-tricks to distract from her cuts, fabrication, and finishes. Great collection and the material is of excellent quality! She titled the collection “Future Victoria” and it had everything Victorian with all the modern twists and turns (none of that trendy shoulder constructions were in this collection though). Simple, quality and by large a very well pit together collection – including the lace-finished high waste pants which were my favourite.

Klük CGDT:

Summary: Circus de Couture

Summary: typical Klük cgdt – and that is no insult… trust me!

Opinion: it was an experience! The circus theme with clowns, ballerinas (with a catwalk stride I wish I could mimic) and trapeze artist made for an overall beautiful show. The most memorable from the collection was the bridal wear with the finale including a Viktor&Rolf lazer cut voluminous collection type of veil. They are prête-porter geniuses! With Klük CGDT – you can do no wrong!

Thula Sindi

Summary: corporate girl with a sense of fun

Thread: none

Opinion: This was perhaps one of the best collections Thula ever put together. The show was poorly constructed because of the lack of built up/direction (very distracting if the collection does not build up to a crescendo) – perhaps more thought should’ve gone into the clothes line-up. On the flipside, the clothes were DeGorge. I liked how Thula plays with fabric in this collection! He revisted Deconstruction (which, he tells me, was his favourite as a design student) to create flowing pieces each with a uniqueness that has lacked in other Thula Sindi shows. This was a beautiful one, well done!

pics courtesy of Simon Deiner (http://www.afi.sdr.co.za/)

Africa Fashion Week, Day 2

Christie Brown:

Summary: Western and Eastern designs with African inspiration

Thread: Ankara-covered buttons and badges

Opinion: She used plenty of African print ribbons to make fabulous finishes.

Bunmi Koko:

Summary: tribal warrior woman titled Matriarchy collection (had a lot of Louis Vuitton tribal collection resemblance...)

Thread: socks with tassles/fringed leggings

Opinion: This was a FABULOUS show! There were feather details, fringes and tassles with vudu-like accessories. There really are no words! But let me try: no… FABULOUS! Okay: they’re collection was inspired my the Ekpe Massacre and they’re translation of those trying times brought very strong feminine designs with ferocious attitude. You know how elephant groups are often led by a strong female head – well this is the same concept, the women of this collection are real Matriarchs, true leaders. A collection for a winner! DeGorge!

LaQuan Smith:

Summary: the freakum dress 2010

Thread: no notable thread in the collection

Opinion: LaQuan experiments with shape, form and material. His most notable trademark, nicked gold spandex featured in the form of low hanging leggings (almost mocking harems) which I thought were quite clever. The micro-mini, “freakum dress”, was the main feature of the show – embellished to look like fishscales – to keep the “trip to the beach” theme alive – and voluminous shell inspired shoulder and upper-arm construction on jackets was a quirky and fierce feature. My overall impression… well, Kelly Millionaire (LaQuan’s manager) captured the essence of the collection: “if you need a classic suite, go to Chanel! If you need a good blazer, go to Ralph Lauren! If you want a man or want your man back, go to LaQuan” – aaamen! Did I mention that model on the super fast lane rise, Sissilee Lopez, walked his ramp? Well… she did! PS> she’s Chistiaan Siriano muse.

Koketso Chiepe

Summary: “when I dream… I dream in colour”

Thread: white patch detail.

Opinion: The ramp was buzzing with celebrity/socialite models; Babalwa Mneno and Sonia Booth to name a few. The clothes were simple, colourful and had none of the current shoulder trends (unless off the shoulder is considered one. I was not too convinced by Ephraim Modingoane and Indashio Inspires styling – but the finished catwalk product was… okay… it’s a collection that should sell quickly as she had a lot of commercial looks.

Marianne Fassler

Summary: African in every way

Thread: children’s collection: animal print drapings with print finishes

Opinion: the children’s collection was very cute! Not very practical for children though: I cannot imagine children playing in any of the garments unless it’s a dress-up Peterpan/wizard of Oz/Fantasy-themed party. The collection, in totality, is very Marianne. Very African with mixing of African prints, camouflage and tribal influences. It was crazy-fun, somewhat shocking but it would not be complete Fassler show unless I did not experience a spectrum of emotions which I did. She has an amazing effect on me.

Errol Arendz:

Summary: Camps Bay Holiday

Thread: Chiffon and lace – flowing material

Opinion: the collection was very commercial. It had flowing kaftans, wrap dresses and robes. Flirty and very comfortable looks. The collection, true to Errol Arendz, is not groundbreaking but classic beauty! Fabulous finishes but I struggled to understand how the collection would fit in in a city other than on a tropical holiday.

Abigail Betz

Summary: Bridal wear or whimsical garden party

Thread – beading

Opinion: I felt that she did not do anything new with respect to design. Typical wedding features: tulle, beading, embroidery and volume. Not too moved by this collection but beautifully executed.

pics courtesy of Simon Deiner on http://www.afi.sdr.co.za/

Africa Fashion Week, Day 1

Xuly Bet

Summary of collection: Gatherings, wet-look leggings, anti-shape silhouettes and skin-tight

Thread: All black using latex-polyester material with red out-stitches.

Opinion: This collection might appeal to the international market because of it's wearability (albeit in 90s design with 21st century material) but I personally found it bland and uninspiring. There was nothing new about this collection BUT, the hooded capes and gathered latex trench coats were amazing! All too sporty-cum-street for me

Sakina Msa

Summary: ThulaSindi-meets-Balmain

Thread: Black with strong shoulder construction and panelled dresses

Opinion: I was impressed at how the simplicity of the pieces got a 21st century injection by way of shoulder constructions - not garish in the least bit! Wearable but Fierce. DeGorge!

Ituene Basi

Summary: Mixing traditional material with clashing colours

Thread: "African prints"

Opinion: this collection captured the essence of spring. Bright colours and experimenting with colour. The ribboned ankara details were amazing - be it incorporated into the outfit, or acting as an accessory or, even, forming the covetable "movement" by using the printed ribbons as tassles and fringes - very cute!

Deola Sagoe

Summary: celebrating an african in Latin-American disguise

Thread: use of hard material to form pleats

Opinion: I felt like getting up and doing the paso doble when I saw this collection! It was truly feminine. She did not go out of her way to create a new silhouette but drew from material knowledge (this really seperates the boys from the men) and executed what look like complex garments - despite the simple aesthetics -. She also showed a very good understanding of shadowing (the lining on pleats) the outfits... not too many consider that.

She also used hard material to achieve exaggerated pleats which accentuate a woman's features and hides the classic problematic areas. An overall DeGorgeously playful collection! She deserves a gold star!

Soucha

Summary: dark, mysterious and strangely glamorous

Thread: black veiled garments

Opinion: This collection had plenty of volume, or suggestion thereof, in all their pieces: Black rose detail, capes, trails, tassles, drama, mystery - all very Soucha. But beyond the razmataz of the ramp, the pieces a luxurious and each very wearable - on a regular basis (not just a wait-for-an-event basis).

Heni:

Summary: western, country and romantic

Thread: nautical stripes

Opinion: the garments had subtle but intricate detailing and finishing. The collection was intelligently put together and blah blah blah... I did not like it! Will it sell? YES! but not as it was laidout on the ramp. I felt that although a lot of thinking went into assembling the outfits, it somehow spoilt the beautiful simplicity of the intircately constructed garments. For a change, I think less would have been nice for this collection.

Noir:

summary: very metrosexual

Thread: Black and white

Opinion: Look, it was a typical man's show, no real "new look". but I will say, invest in good bedroom wear! I have to give credit to the beautiful trench coat (with an extra long lapel which makes a space-filling flap when not buttoned - truly magnificent), chunky knitwear with voluminous turtleneck with the jodhpur-like meggings/mannings.

David Tlale

summary: Classic David Tlale - ruffles, burst of colour, mixing of interesting prints AND very true to the butterfly-inspiration

Thread: butterfly eyepieces

Opinion: David's a showman! from the midnight show invite to the impressive orchestra and beautiful soloist - it was all very dramatic but fun. Fact is (and Thula Sindi said this in another article, not related to this) that there is nothing new in fashion - not really - it's an old tradition which gets seasoned according to the seasons and this collection reiterated this for me. Looks like David revisited DT archives and came up with the same silhouettes but only with freche colours and detailing. I found most of the male collection pieces very awkward but I loved how they sit on the sexual fence. Beautiful collection nonetheless...

pics courtesy of Simon Deiner on www.afi.sdr.co.za