Stiaan Louw

I would wear EVERY-single piece that was on display - as it is, or Maque-styled. This collection, described by some as a very Romantic African Story with very strong Nomadic references, was conceptually strong and brilliantly executed.

Stiaan has really mastered the art of layering the most intricate, clashing materials (hard and soft, delicate and robust) to give life to clothes that are, in general, a very gray-area for a western-influenced man.

I also loved the odd pants: harems in hard material, Jodphur-effects on some of the pants, the delicate materials used in the kaftans and the waterfall-feature in the oversized cardigans (which, in the above pictures - pic 2 at the top - , is thrown over the shoulder to give a scarf effect) - a trend which picked up with female collections a few years ago, but the masculine touch on it gives it a testosterone drive - and you know anything androgynous speaks Maquenese!

I loved it!! tres DeGorge.

Images by Simon Deiner

Bongiwe Walaza

One could argue that this collection had more Edwardian references - there was too much attention given to the collar - than Victorian - which is more about covering it ALL up -, but either way - her inspiration of the Victorian era with a Xhosa narrative was well received by the crowd, including the First Lady of South Africa, one of them, who was comfortably seated in the front row (whom I saw smiling)...

The piping on the edges of the voluminous gowns told her Xhosa roots, while the silhouette told a dramatic tale of the European Old World. Her use of Seshweshwe was very clever too: the overpowering silhouettes required a hard and distinctly African material to show the contrast in her designs and that's exactly how most of her clothes were executed - definitely well thought-through!

I see a lot of Bongiwe Walaza-clothed African weddings, or perhaps parties hosted by the State? Yes, it's beautiful enough to be edgy for the youngins and lovable by the parents.

Pics by Simon Deiner

Avant

If you love TopShop in London, this collection will speak your language, fluently!!

Inspired by London street style, these ready to wear art pieces are completely DeGorge. I love the multiple zip coats and the cross-pendants! They all had a sombre, dark and mystical feel but with a fierce energy about them (did someone say Eclipse Movies?)... I was completely sold on this collection.

The styling of the collection also worked soo well too.

Another appealing factor was the tasteful use of tasseling, in clever nooks on the garments, to give movement to the outfits - a very sexy element to the grunge.

The tailoring and finishes were impeccable and I, not joking here, am eyeing a number to free my partner when wardrobe fails zip detail jacket.

The sheer material skirts with patch detailing to cover the ladybits was also a lovely sight - I just hope they have a shirt version because I am not holding back, watch this space!

On the otherside of my excitement was that this collection is very reminiscent of Suzaan Heyns' collection for Audi Joburg Fashion week 2010 collection, no? okay... the streets of London it is.

Images by Simon Deiner

Karabo Finger

She nailed the Parisian details, the "backward" scarf, the sleek and elegant pussybows, the masculine touches for an androgynous take - but still so feminine.

As far as concept goes, there was much creativity displayed. But I like the idea of making separates, each with a good finish, which translates to the pieces in the collection fitting well in any girls wardrobe.

I was more fond of styling more than anything - my senses were not awoken, unfortuantely, by the garments - but a very good pret-a-porter collection for all corporate girls

images by Simon Deiner

Abigail Betz

Known for her Bridal wear, I was happy to see a drastic change in Abigail Betz's collection, for starters, it included the colour black and greys which I am lead to believe she has never used before.

Her 1950s-inspired collection is elegant and very high-tea-in-the-garden with a few lady friends (you absolutely have to read that in your poshest English accent).

This change couldn't have have come at a better time... think about it - now that you've been married in an Abigail Betz, she now leads you into the new role of a leading lady in someone's life... a really sophisticated lady, for a gentleman... ahh! so glad to see the romantic in me still exists, lol

This collection, as the 1920s and 50s called for, is defined by voluminous dresses (and sleek shift dresses) but with a corporate feel which removes all images of just a high tea with lady friends and introduces a lifestyle of elegance...

The use of tulle in this collection was also very intelligently done - adding volume to the hips (which naturally makes the waist look smaller, there's your answer to trim down diets) and another trick I noted was also piling tulle in the front of the dress to highlight the beautifully constructed layered pleats in some of the dresses - this flattered most of the dresses and gave an overall amazing aesthetic.

Beautifully executed and as one of my interview subjects said, "it paid good homage to the era", but did nothing for those yearning for fresh concepts - read more on fashion week reviews on www.stylehousefiles.com (short interviews).

I'm looking forward to more!

Pics by Simon Deiner

Spero Villioti

For the first few minutes, I was too busy clearing my eyes, clothes, notebook and bag of the silver and gold confetti which Spero Villioti used to depict Joburg skyline during the rain (silver) and sunset (gold). I was unfortunate enough to be seated directly below the confetti feeder so my bag looks like a disco inside - nevermind my hair (the pic above is a mobile phone pic taken as i was showered with gold and silver sprinkles)

What did manage to see was a fabulous New Year's eve party at a Johannesburg downtown upmarket loft . The cocktail dresses were tastefully made to show off the contours of a woman's body while the material gives life to the dated design details.

From the Joburg loft, Spero took us on a short journey to latin-america with wonderful displays of colour and even hints of the Mardis Gras with the beaded dress.

Overall though, the atmosphere of a party was created in the clothes but I couldn't scratch the itch that I've seen some of the work from other designers... like an amalgamation of so many other designs and as soon as I remember from where, I will let it be known! BUT a cheerful collection nonetheless!

The fits and finishes were impeccable, as one would expect from Spero, and though the collection will be difficult to incorporate into any wardrobe, they will definitely punch glamour into it.

GREAT! just pulled another confetti out of my 'fro.

pics by Simon Deiner

Lisp

Lisp, in short said: Let's never forget to party... club 54-style: Sex and rock 'n roll.

The target audience here is clearly the young folk... young folk with a punk-rock attitude but still seeking feminine touches. The contrast of the soft sheer, chiffon, "fluffy" material against the leather made quite an impact.

The clothes were sensual and seductive with a hard inner-being existing in them (depicted by the leather) - which again brings up the attitude that the clothes require - quite ballsy!

The finishes and fittings were a bit ill - but that added to the "don't give" attitude. Whether by mistake or by design, these questionable touches seemed to work.

I dwelled on the attitude aspect in this collection because there is clearly one way to wear a Lisp and that's with confidence laced with a party, uplifting mood.

In terms of designs, silhouettes and concept, this collection was not fresh - but all these elements were well put together to tell a story... a story of a good night out.

Pics by Simon Deiner